Dark Tourism: How to Visit Prek Sbauv Kampong Thom
Being one of the least visited parts of Cambodia, it would be fair to say that there is not all that much to do in Kampong Thom, save for a few scattered resorts out in the boonies. There is though one village that holds a huge amount of political significance, and that is Prek Sbauv.
Located just eight kilometres from Kampong Thom city, Prek Sbauv is not just where the former communist leader Pol Pot was born and spent his formative years, but also where many of his family members still live. And while you will certainly not see monuments, nor anything commemorative here, visiting still offers an unusual insight into the early life of the man who would become Cambodias most brutal ruler.
Who Exactly Was Pol Pot?
If you are reading a publication called Cambodia Lifestyle, then we will assume you have at least heard of Pol Pot, but just in case, here is the short version.
Pol Pot, born Saloth Sar in 1925, was a boy from a reasonably well-off rural family in Prek Sbauv. He grew up during the French colonial period, before moving to Phnom Penh and later studying in Paris, where he became involved with Marxist circles. After returning to Cambodia, he joined the underground communist movement and gradually rose to prominence, eventually leading the Khmer Rouge.
From 1975 to 1979, his regime presided over one of the most brutal episodes in modern history, emptying cities, abolishing money, and sending millions to forced labour camps. It is estimated that around two million people died through starvation, execution, and disease. After being ousted by the Vietnamese, Pol Pot fled to Anlong Veng near the Thai border, where he remained until his death in 1998. His legacy continues to shape Cambodian society to this day.
Click here to read a more in depth anaylsis of Pol Pot.
How to Get to Prek Sbauv
Getting to Prek Sbauv starts with reaching Kampong Thom, which lies more or less halfway between Siem Reap and Phnom Penh. Buses run daily between both cities, taking around three to four hours depending on traffic. Tickets usually cost between six and ten dollars, and the roads are mostly in good condition. Kampong Thom also sits neatly on the so-called hippy trail between southern Laos and Cambodia, making it an easy stopover for overlanders heading south.
Once in Kampong Thom, getting to the village itself is straightforward. Prek Sbauv is about eight kilometres from the city centre, so you can take a brisk walk, rent a bicycle, or hire a local tuk tuk driver. Expect to pay around five dollars for a round trip and a bit extra if you want the driver to wait while you explore.
It should be noted though that simply driving here is not the same as truly visiting. To get access to the right areas and to talk with the locals, you will need tact, respect, and ideally a translator or guide. The local community is still protective of its connection to Pol Pot, and wandering around without context or understanding could easily be seen as intrusive.
What Is There to See in Prek Sbauv?
As stated, this is not a place the Ministry of Tourism, nor even DC-Cam, have ever formally marked. There are no monuments, plaques, or signposts pointing out where you are. That in itself speaks volumes, especially when you consider that even Stalin and Ceaușescu have memorials.
There are, however, remnants of the Saloth Sar family still living in the village. When we visited, we were able to meet and speak with one of Pol Pot’s nephews. The conversation was polite but cautious. He confirmed that he had last seen Pol Pot in 1993, shortly before the Khmer Rouge took up arms again. Beyond that, he maintained that he did not know much about politics.
The family were friendly and open enough to show us the area where Pol Pot’s childhood home once stood. The original structure is long gone, replaced by a rundown wooden house said to belong to one of his sisters. There is little else to mark its historical weight, just a patch of quiet countryside that looks like any other rural Khmer village.
Aside from this, the only other notable site in Prek Sbauv is a small Catholic church and ministry that is over one hundred years old, a remnant of French colonial influence. Otherwise, life here revolves around fishing, farming, and family. It is a simple, quiet community that feels far removed from the horrors associated with its most infamous son.
How to Visit Prek Sbauv
Generally speaking, it is not advisable to just turn up and start poking around. The villagers are friendly, but this is still a sensitive topic. The safest and most respectful way to visit is through a guide or translator who knows the area and the family. This helps avoid misunderstandings and ensures that conversations remain comfortable for everyone involved.
If you want to go the extra mile, consider contacting a travel agency such as Young Pioneer Tours, who specialise in dark tourism and have the connections to arrange visits properly. They can set up meetings with locals, explain the historical context, and ensure the experience remains ethical and informative.
Prek Sbauv will never be a tourist attraction in the traditional sense, nor should it be. It is a quiet, almost forgotten corner of Cambodia that holds a heavy piece of history. Visiting it with the right mindset is not just about dark tourism; it is about understanding now just how it affected the nation in the past, but also in a contempoary setting.
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Author: Gareth Johnson
Gareth Johnson is the founder of Young Pioneer Tours and has visited over 180+ countries. His passion is opening obscure destinations to tourism and sharing his experience of street food.
